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Tiara Darnell, an African American female entrepreneur from Washington, DC, has brought a flavor of home to Mexico City with the creation of Blaxicocina, the country’s first and only successful soul food restaurant in the city of more than 16 million people. Tiara’s delectable concoctions are finding a warm embrace among both Black Americans and curious locals, thanks to a culinary adventure that spans countries and generations.
Tiara states that when she first came in Mexico City in 2021, she quickly learned that her favorite Old Bay seasoning wasn’t as widely available as it was in her birthplace of Maryland. According to DCist, she said it inspired her to open Blaxicocina utilizing recipes passed down through generations.
Blaxicocina’s flavors of home came from an unexpected source: her mother. She purchased bulk-sized containers from Restaurant Depot, which satisfied her desire for Old Bay seasoned fries, among other things. Furthermore, the restaurant serves other soul food classics such as fried chicken, cornbread, carrot cake, and sweet tea.
Creating true soul cuisine in Mexico, on the other hand, presented new obstacles. Ingredients essential for traditional recipes were difficult to come by. The cornmeal for her cornbread and the coating for her fried green tomatoes had to be made from scratch by hand, the Mexican way. She even stimulated the growth of collard greens, a soul food staple not often found in Mexico, by collaborating with local farmers.
Blaxicocina is more than just a restaurant; it’s a gathering place for a growing community of Black Americans who have made Mexico City their new home. The eatery even has ties to the “Blaxit” movement, which involves leaving the United States in search of a better life elsewhere. Tiara’s decision was motivated by a desire for a better quality of life and an escape from institutional bigotry.
Tiara’s welcoming attitude extends beyond her offerings. She is attempting to connect with the local community by collaborating with Mexican merchants, employees, and contractors. Her goal is to enrich rather than exploit the community, encouraging cultural interaction and mutual respect.
“Mexico City definitely feels like home. I have a really great community around me. I have friends that are family at this point, and I just feel really connected here, culturally, socially, in a way that I just didn’t in the U.S,” she said.
